Sierra de Lujar, Alpujarra.

Whilst reaching a height of 1,850m the Sierra de Lujar range to the south of the Sierra Nevada is generally overlooked by walkers visiting the area. Perhaps the reason is that with its whale bacl appearance and lack of rocky peaks it just does not appeal. There are routes here however with one of the better ascents forming a hard day out with about 1,200m of ascent. The route starts in the Baranco de Castilejo a steep sided valley due south of Orgiva. The baranco , which holds some single pitch climbs on outcrops , provides an easy route in as there is a mine access track running up it from the main road. The track splits at about 700m with the main branch doubling back to climb the western side of the valley to the mine workings above. Our route climbs the eastern side on a less well used track before reaching a fire break/track which runs south along the crest of a narrow ridge that climbs steeply upward. The track provides a clear route until about 1.000m where it reverts to a path running up the middle of the fire break which still follows the crest. The route now steepens and at 1250m begins to develop a more rocky nature with a number of limestone outcrops along the crest. The first three are by passed to the right (west) though provide short scrambles. After a further 300m of ascent the ridge fades into the main bulk of the mountain. From here you will see the masts at the summit, head due south to and these. Just before the first of the masts you will reach a narrow tarmac road, follow this past the first of the masts to bear right just before the second group to follow a stone path bearing right before the third group of masts. The path now narrows and heads west to cross the head of the Baranco de Castilejo and reaches a minor peak. Now narrower the path crosses open plateau to reach the edge of a one forest. From here head right (north) through the forest. As you emerge cross a distinctive limestone ridge to enter a second narrower band of older pine trees. Leave the second band of trees and head to a clear track still heading north across the hillside. As the track turns west continue north across virgin hillside to reach the head of a broad firebreak which creates the start of the descent route. Cross a number of narrow tracks until at about 1,250m you reach a well used track. There are some large caves off to the left (west).This now heads east to pass the ruins of some mine buildings before zigzagging down the mountainside back to the start of the route.

La Maroma, Axarquia

Whilst still waiting for the snow to arrive I took advantage of the good weather to do a mountain that has been on my list for a long time. La Maroma ( The Rope) is the large limestone mountain that lies NE of Velez Malaga. At a 2,068m it offers a great open ridge walk with views down to and across the med. to the south or back toward the Sierra Nevada and other ranges inland. There are a number of popular ascent routes up this mountain. Two come up from the from the western end above Lake Vineula however the route which is easiest to access form Lanjaron is the one from La Robledal (the oak grove) which lies to the North East of the range itself. El Robladal , is an area of mixed forest with native oaks and pine, there is a camp site here and picnic areas. Higher up the route are yew trees which are quite rare with young specimens being protected by fencing on the upper slopes of the mountain. The car park at El Robladal can be accessed from Alhama de Granada or from Arenas de Rey both routes requiring some driving along tracks. The ascent route itself is well way marked and starts easily enough as it follows forest tracks to eventually revert to a small path through the tress as the more serious ascent begins. The route eventually emerges form the forest and climbs more broken ground which leads to a very pleasant and rocky traversing section below the final slopes at a area called Salto de Caballo ( horseman’s leap). Once through this rocky traverse the route opens up as you crest the ridge to get views south to the coast. Here a very steep path comes up from the countryside above Sedella just to join our route. There is then a a quite exposed section with a steep drop to our left as the route crosses a narrow spine of rock at Cortados de Maroma. From here cairns mark the final ascent across an open expanse of limestone blocks. The summit marker is an obvious 3m high stone spire with rungs up the front to allow you to get even higher. I must say from where I sat and had lunch I’m sure it isn’t actually on the highest point which seemed to me to be at the eastern end of the ridge. The summit was quite crowded when I got there with walkers coming up from both ends of the ridge. A full traverse of the mountain seems feasible if you can arrange cars for pick ups and would make a good walk into a great one as unfortunately I had to return the way I came.

The Rio Lanjaron valley

I was out recently with clients who were staying in Lanjaron. As they only wanted a fairly easy day I suggested that we did a circuit of the village, this meant I didn’t have to use my car and yet we got a great walk. The route we took follows the line of a Camino Real up the Rio Lanjaron valley ( camino reals or royal tracks are effectively the nearest thing to a Public Right of Way to be found here in Spain). This particular route runs up toward Cero de Caballo. For those who like stat’s this mountain, which at 3,011m sits high above Lanjaron, is the most westerly 3000m+ peak in Europe. The path itself starts at the eastern end of the village following a well defined mule track which not so long ago was one of the main routes to higher pastures and agricultural land. Underfoot there was obvious evidence of recent use by a mule or horse however it is difficult to imagine the amount of traffic which must have used these routes in days gone by to get into the high mountains. Whilst most of these old tracks are becoming overgrown and lost this particular route is well documented in a number of guides and is kept clear to a certain extent through a higher level of use and by occasional maintenance by park rangers. Even though we had been able to set off at a reasonably early hour and get the bulk of the climbing done in the morning, much of the route was done in full sun and mid afternoon heat. For those not used to walking in the area, the intense heat of summer or in this case spring, can be debilitating. Normally I carry at least two litres of water and advise clients to do the same. On this day however, I had an additional litre plus some fruit. Even so we had to replenish our water at a fuente on route. I am often asked by clients if water in acequias can be drunk as often on the face of it it seems crystal clear and untainted. I must admit, when I first came over here I have done so. However, having since seen dead cabra (goats) in some and goat muck slurry in others I now avoid doing so at all costs. Fuentes or springs are usually marked on maps however on occasion I have arrived to find them dry so it is best over summer to carry sufficient water from the start of the day to ensure you do not dehydrate. The fuente we drank at is named Pedro Calvo , which translated means ‘’Bald Pete’’, I wonder who they could mean?

Monachil Gorge , Granada

The Monachil Gorge is a deservedly popular short walk close to Granada. Reputed to have been used in one of the Indiana Jones movies the gorge is a spectacular cleft through high cliffs. Our route uses suspension bridges to cross the stream running through the gorge and a narrow ‘path’ which is followed with the aid of well placed steel staples fixed into the rock. It sounds scary but it is in fact easy enough if you have a reasonable agility and a head for heights.

To get to the start follow signs from the Sierra Nevada motorway east of Granada to Monachil. As you enter the village you follow the one way system and take the first left over the river. Turn right and after about 400m re cross the river, signed, Camino de la Umbria. Turn left to follow a narrow tarmac road uphill for about 1km then left onto a track where a map gives details of the area. Follow the track for about 1km to park at its end near a building used as a mini hydro electric plant.

There are other routes to the start of the gorge itself however this one prepares you by taking in three smaller suspension bridges before you reach the main event. The walk starts up a flight of steps to the right of the building and is a well trodden fenced path, after about 10 minutes you reach the first small bridge, if you can’t manage this then turn back. Once you have crossed all the smaller bridges the path goes up a level to a ruin where you turn right to reach the main 30m bridge which spans the gorge. After this the path narrows as you follow a narrow concrete path about a metre above the stream. A description would not do the route justice so just go and enjoy it.

After about an hour you emerge from the end of the gorge and having passed the final sting in the tail you reach a field ideal for picnics and recovering. There is a bridge here back across the river however our return route continues upstream for about 2km to a second bridge below a number of finger posts. Cross here and follow the path as it climbs the north side of the valley passing through a very rudimentary field gate at an outcrop of rock. The path levels then drops to meet a track just below an acequia. Ignore the finger posts and go directly across the track to rejoin the path as it contours along the valley side passing below a farm. The path gives you great views down into the gorge and the route you have just done. After a final mirador the path drops to two threshing circles. Once you reach them turn left back into the gorge, at the ruin passed earlier turn right back down to the path we followed at the start of the walk.

8km, 3-4 hours, no water en route.

El Torcal, via feratta

Just outside the boundary of the Torcal natural park is the peak of Camorro Alto reached from the ‘’Escaleruela’’ track running in from the north. Low down on the northern flank of the peak about 1 km SW of the trail head is the start of what is a quite strenuous Via Feratta route.

For those not in the know via feratta are protected scrambles or easy climbs. large metal staples are fixed up the route for foot and hand holds and a wire hawser runs adjacent for clipping into for protection against a slip or fall. Needless to say you need some climbing experience along with suitable equipment before you attempt this route.

The route starts awkwardly up a steep corner and is very strenuous for the first 20 metres or so as it is slightly overhanging. From the top of the first section an exposed traverse leads to a second corner and a shorter vertical section which is again started awkwardly. At the top of this is a large platform with a short section leading to a narrow and exposed ridge. So far the route has been tough going but as long as you have a good head for heights and some experience simple enough. The next section however transforms the route out of the normal range as it is a short ‘’Tyrolean traverse’’. Put simply you clip into a pulley fixed to a cable spanning a four meter gap between the main cliff face and the outlying pinnacle you have climbed. Once clipped in you swing out into mid air and pull yourself across the gap. The traverse is hairy to say the least and with a problematic start and finish needs care to ensure you get it right.

Once over the traverse a final section of cable leads you to the top.

When I recently did the route with some friends we were accompanied by low flying vultures wheeling above us in the mist which as you can imagine added to the atmosphere a little.

During out return to the car we did a short scramble up a prominent rib to the right of the decent path., this may well have been a first ascent as it seemed to have been unclimbed before we did it. The area looks great for further exploration so I do intend to get back

3-4 hours, 5km, Experience and appropriate climbing equipment essential

Ermita de Cristo de Zapato

This walk is in the Lecrin valley, a lush area to the west of the Motril – Granada motorway. Follow signs for Pinos de Valle from the motorway, the road crosses the dam wall of the Embalse de Beznar and climb up into Pinos, at a T junction at the top of the village turn right for about 100m and park.

The walks climbs from Pinos up to the Ermita de Cristo de Zapato perched high above the village. Struck by lightening about 18 months ago the ermita has since been rebuilt.

From the wash house where there is a nearby spring here for filling your water bottle signs point to Ermita de Cristo de Zapato. The track winds up behind a building near a quarry, after 5min. at a second sign, follow the path as it climbs steeply before levelling out in the forest. Now it’s simply a matter of slowly plodding up the many zig zags to the ermita.

After 10 minutes you pass a building on the right with pipes running to it through the forest. ( Where the pipes leave the path into the forest marks our return path and is marked by a yellow arrow.) Continue uphill to eventually reach the ermita perched on a painted rock outcrop. The ermita is normally open and is worth looking in. Behind is a new lightening conductor and beyond a short rock ridge can be followed for about 500m.

Return down the track we climbed until the junction noted during the ascent; here turn right along a narrower but clear path alongside water pipes. The path traverses through the forest passing a large alburca before slightly dropping and turning to the west. Pass a boundary marker and cairn above a small almond grove then re enter the forest. At the next clearing you get stunning views east across the Alpujarra as far as the Sierra de Gador inland of Almeria some 70km away. Cross through a baranco before the path descends to a T junction above a concrete track. At the junction turn left.

The return path levels as it crosses though grassland and scrub before meeting a wider track at a new alburca. Follow the track tacking care as it passes bee hives. The path drops to a cross road, here head down hill to join a tarmac road just left of a small bridge. Turn left for about 10 minutes back into the village.

Even if you have a map of the area don’t expect to see all of this route, like many local paths it simply does not appear even though it’s clearly old and well trodden.
As any regular walker will know in comparison to the UK’s Ordnance Survey maps Spanish maps, even if available leave a lot to be desired. A bit of perseverance and willingness to explore areas has it rewards as you will find if you do manage to do this or other routes in the sierras of the region.

4-5 hours
water at start
Easy route finding , steep ascent.

Half day walk in Axarquia

I have been exploring the mountains just inland of Nerja and Almunecar for some time nad recently descovered a great half day route which shows off some of the best that the range has to offer.

Beware walking here is hot , its onlu a few kilomiters inland and you need to carry plenty of water wear sun screen and sun hat.

The walk starts on the track to the area recreativa signed from the entrance to the famous caves at Nerja. Access is obvious allong a rough byt well used track. After about 3km there is a sign '' sederisimo'' park here. This is the finish of the walk but from here to the area recreativa is up hill and at the end of the walk you will appreciate getting to the car at htis point.

Continue on foot allong the main track passing through the area recreativa heading N. The track descends to cross a stream however follow the stream bed for about 100m then head right into the Barranc de la Higuera. the path is a bit overgrown at first but soon clears beneath some eucalyptus trees. After about 200m there is a track on the Right marked by stone cairns. From here ist uphill for about 45 minutes. keep plodding away however you can hardly miss the stunning views openeing up as you get higher particulalry toward the N W with views of La Peuta or S toward the coast. The track zig zags steadily up hill to fianally reach the crest of the Molinera ridge. Here the path leve;s for a short while and there a re level areas with great veiws for a well earned break.

The descent is obvious as the path head to the left of the ridge itself. take care as there are some loose sections however once again the views are stunning not least to the N as the summit of Alto de Cielo comes into view. Half an hour of descent sees you at a track which heads W back to the car, make the most of the waymarked short cuts across the hairpin bends to save your feet and to getinto some shade through the pine forest.

The area is well worth a vist at any time of the year however in spring there are numerous wild flowers on the limestone of the area.

White villages of the Taha

The Taha is an area of the Alpujarra about 10km east of the Poqueira area. made up of about a dozen small villages tha arera is ideal for easier walking in the area. The history of the area is moorish and the name itself, Taha means settlement in arabic. Our route takes in six of the villages from the smallest Altabeiter to Pitres which is the mane village of the area. Starting in Fondeles we follow a pack horse track up toward Pitres passing through the hamlets of Mecinilla and Mecina en route. Reaching Pitres after about an hour comes as a relief and the plaza makes an ideal spot for a break. Pitres is known as the ''Port of Pitres'' and even though it lies at about 1,200m it has its own fishing boat moored at the entrance to the village. The maritime theme is in response to a past politician who promised the good people of the village anything they wanted if they voted for him, the response a request for two harvest a year and a port. Villagers on the coast ha rd of the request and sent a boat and ships anchor up the mountain to support the cause.

We leave from the eastern end of the village and follow GR 142/E4 signs to pass by a hostal and drop into a river bed here again is evodence of recent landslips and flooding . Continuing along the path we reach Altabeiter, a small hamlet of about 30properties which is worth the five minutes it will take to expplore the village. After the village we continue east(ignore the paths off this route) and reach an old watermill perched between two small streams. The path then climbs to run between an unusually formal garden set amongst the almond groves. Continueing east we finally reacj a track heading south down in to the valley follow this for about 5 minutes to a waymarker pointing back west along the valley side.

This section of the route adds mountain drama to what has so far been a much more pasoral scenery.The south side of the Rio Travelez valley is made up of dramatic cliffs and peaks with steep zig zaging paths climbing up the vally side. The path is well waymarked as you slowly descend passing a well maintained era or threashing circles soon followed by a magnificent spring with naturally carbonated water coming out. Soon we enter Feriaroles, at the old wash house in the cente of the village turn left then right at the bottom of the short street to soon return back to a small path which takes us back to Fondales an the start of the walk.

duration 4-5 hours
approx 10km
water at springs in villages

Travenque

For most walkers getting to a summit is the main aim of their trip. At 2083m Travenque is big by UK standards but dwarfed by others in the range. It is however a fine mountain standing alone, it looks as if its been designed by a young child , steep cliffs leading to a rocky point of a summit which once you arrive you will realise is surrounded on all sides by steep drops.

I hope I haven’t made it sound to intimidating, it is a moderately difficult ascent with a steep path section below the top however if you have sure footing and don’t mind using hands on rock occasionally you will have no problems.

To start head to La Zubia about 5km South West of Granada, go through the village and then follow signs for Cumbra Verdes a further 2km south, from the end of the tarmac follow a dirt track for 2km to a car park and at Cerro de Sevilla. A number of walks and trails start from here so it’s well worth a visit.

From the car park ascend east to reach a broad track and follow this crossing through a strange lunar landscape of white shales. There are fine views south across the Rio Dilar toward the ridge line of the Alayas de Dilar, which looks more like the Black Cullin of Skye than a Spanish ridge.

After about 2km the track reaches a broad sandy col, here the final summit can easily be seen together with the grassy gully that the final section of the route follows. Drop east off the col on a path before turning left up a dry river bed. After 2km you reach a sign directing walkers around the back of the main summit via a gap in the ridge to your right however this is the point we begin our ascent so head left toward the summit on a narrow path which begins from this point. After passing the end of a track which marks our return route continue steeply to reach a magnificent view point on the ridge leading to the summit. Hands on rock from here as we follow the zig zags up through the grassy gully to a small rock step bout 10m below the summit. Cross the step, turn left and then follow a path around a rock outcrop to a final short easy scramble to the summit itself.

The views from the rocky summit are stunning. Looking east are some of Sierra Nevadas 3,000m + summits such as Valeta (3299m) and Cero de Caballo (3011m), west is Granada and the Alhambra whilst all around your feet is open space as you look down onto pine forest and dry desert valleys.

To return head back to the rock step and follow the ascent back down until you reach the end of the track we passed on the way up. Follow this as is slowly descends to the col From here you can either follow our ascent route all the way or take a smaller way marked path that heading west from the col.

Route details
Length 10km, ascent 700m, no water enroute, approximate time 5 hours.

Rio Verde, Sierra Almijara.

The Sierra Almijara lies as the eastern end of the range of mountains running along the Mediterranean coastline from Malaga toward Motril.There are some sizable peaks within the range , up to 2,000m however the walk I describe below is in the upper section of the Rio Verde inland of Almunecar.


The walk starts just south of the spectacular cliffs o the mountain road between Almunecar and Padul. This road is well worth the drive in itself even if you don't do the walk. From a lay by with information boards the path runs along the north side of the Cerro Martos along a traversing path with fine views across to the rest of the Tejeda range. After about 3km you reach a mirador where the view opens over the upper Rio Verde and south toward the coastline, a spectacular spot for a brief stop. From here the path descends more steeply to finally reach some steps and a hand rail for the last 50m descent to the river bed and petrified waterfall.

The fall was and is still being created as minerals in the water are deposited to create a type of ''flow stone''. Logs which have become lodged in the falls are becoming slowly fossilised as the minerals cover them. Not to be missed on a path slightly to the right of the falls is a small grotto where stalactites and stalagmites are being created by the same process. Well worth taking a torch.

After exploring this area around the falls follow the path for a short distance further on the right bank of the stream before dropping to cross the stream bed and gain access to a track. Turn right to a notice board with information about the Rio verde barranco. From here recross the stream on the track to climb up to a reservoir. Whilst not massive this is an unusual feature in these mountains and is a fine spot to stop for lunch as after this its all up hill back to the car.

From the northern end of the reservoir take a track which crosses and recrosses the stream a number of times to pass below a pinnacle of rock just before an unusual cortijo part built into a natural cave. Turn right (east) after the cortijo to pass an area with a number of bee hives , take care not to disturb the bees. The track is obvious from here as it climbs then descends a number of times until finally crossing a wide dry river bed before a last long drag back up to the road. Turn right to return to the car.

Duration 4-5 hours ,
Moderate walking, easy route finding
No springs enroute
Very hot in summer.

Mulhacen, a two day ascent.

Monday and Tuesday of last week should have been the time for a group ascent of Mulhacen. However dwindling numbers and illness meant that in the end there were only three of us in the party, myself, Maureen and Glen friends from Lanjaron.

The two day ascent involves an easy walk in to the Poqueira Refuge from Hoya de Portillo in the forest above Capileira. There are a number of possible routes to take however I favour the path which crests the Loma de Piedra Blanco ( ''ridge of the white stones'' ) as this takes you above 2,600m for some distance and leads nicely up to the Mirador de Trevelez at 2,700m. This is always a good place for a break before the descent back to the refuge at 2,500m. The mirador is also the spot where in summer the mountain bus deposits walkers who have caught the bus out of Capileira. Is this the highest bus stop in Europe ?

As with many mountain refuges the Poqueira provides basic , evening meal, bunk bed and breakfast in very hospitable surroundings. With an open fire in the main room and wine and beer available at the bar what could be better. The monday we were there was fairly quiet with about 20 people including a group of mountain bikers who arrived after dark and leaft before first light.

We left the refuge at about eight the next morning and headed west to ascend the valley running up to the Laguna de Caldera at the foot of the west ridge of Mulhacen. From the refuge to the summit is a climb of nearly 1,000m in 5km so its never an ascent to be rushed , so we didn't. Two hours plodding saw us at the refugio de Caldera. This is an unmanned bivouac hut at 3,000m where after a short break to photograph the wild ibex we set off up the final 480m to the summit. Never a technical route, unless it has snow on it , the ascent is steep and just needs to be taken at a very steady pace. An hour and a half of more plodding saw us at the summit under glorious blue skies with fantastic 360 degree views including as far south as the Rif of northern Morrocco.

The descent was via the south ridge back to the main track at the mirador before an easy final couple of hours back to the car.

NOT TO BE UNDERTAKEN IN WINTER WITHOUT ADEQUATE EXPERIENCE AND EQUIPMENT.
First day 4-5 hours , second day 8-9 hours
Water at refuge.
Easy walking first day , hard ascent of ridge and long descent on second day. Navigation moderate in clear weather.