Eras of the Alpujarra

Today when walking along many paths in the Alpujarra and other areas we pass though olive, almond or citrus groves. Whilst these crops have been farmed for many years, in the past there used to also be a huge amount of cereal crops such as wheat , barley and oats grown across this region. Proof of this comes in a couple of ways. Many of the area’s river valleys contain the ruins of buildings which were obviously water-driven corn mills. In the Poqueira Gorge for instance there are about half a dozen ruined water mills down the length of the valley, once used to produce flour. Often these are found at key river crossings and at the junction of mule tracks once used to carry unmilled corn to the site and flour away to the villages of the area. Also evident higher up the hill sides are a large number of threshing circles. Known as ‘’Eras’’ these flat circular structures are often paved in the local stone and can be up to ten metres across. Eras are usually found on ridges or cols where the increased wind speed helped in the process of collecting the husks. They would have been used by local farmers to winnow the cut cereals and separate the wheat from the chaff. Here in Lanjaron there is an annual ’’ Fiesta de Parva’’ when the process of threshing is recreated. The process start when a strange cart like structure with wheels resembling circular saw blades is pulled around and around the era by a mule whilst a driver perches atop the cart. This chops up straw which is strewn across its surface. This cutting begins to break the seed husks off the stems and once tossed into the air, allows the lighter chaff to be blown away and heavier seed to fall back to ground to be collected for milling. Judging by the number of eras you see on some walks the amount of cereal produced in the area must have been huge. Within five minutes of my finca alone, there are three eras. Now apparently a protected structure, in the past they were generally seen as communal spaces which served a number of families. Another sign of this previous use of the land is the planting of olive and fruit trees along the terrace edges. Apparently the reasons for this was to allow a cereal crop to be grown down the middle of the terrace and still maintain viable fruit or olive crops. If. like me, your terrace walls are quite high this only seems to make the collection of olives even harder. Collecting olives from a four meter tree on top of a two meter terrace wall is not an easy process.

Sierra de Lujar, Alpujarra.

Whilst reaching a height of 1,850m the Sierra de Lujar range to the south of the Sierra Nevada is generally overlooked by walkers visiting the area. Perhaps the reason is that with its whale bacl appearance and lack of rocky peaks it just does not appeal. There are routes here however with one of the better ascents forming a hard day out with about 1,200m of ascent. The route starts in the Baranco de Castilejo a steep sided valley due south of Orgiva. The baranco , which holds some single pitch climbs on outcrops , provides an easy route in as there is a mine access track running up it from the main road. The track splits at about 700m with the main branch doubling back to climb the western side of the valley to the mine workings above. Our route climbs the eastern side on a less well used track before reaching a fire break/track which runs south along the crest of a narrow ridge that climbs steeply upward. The track provides a clear route until about 1.000m where it reverts to a path running up the middle of the fire break which still follows the crest. The route now steepens and at 1250m begins to develop a more rocky nature with a number of limestone outcrops along the crest. The first three are by passed to the right (west) though provide short scrambles. After a further 300m of ascent the ridge fades into the main bulk of the mountain. From here you will see the masts at the summit, head due south to and these. Just before the first of the masts you will reach a narrow tarmac road, follow this past the first of the masts to bear right just before the second group to follow a stone path bearing right before the third group of masts. The path now narrows and heads west to cross the head of the Baranco de Castilejo and reaches a minor peak. Now narrower the path crosses open plateau to reach the edge of a one forest. From here head right (north) through the forest. As you emerge cross a distinctive limestone ridge to enter a second narrower band of older pine trees. Leave the second band of trees and head to a clear track still heading north across the hillside. As the track turns west continue north across virgin hillside to reach the head of a broad firebreak which creates the start of the descent route. Cross a number of narrow tracks until at about 1,250m you reach a well used track. There are some large caves off to the left (west).This now heads east to pass the ruins of some mine buildings before zigzagging down the mountainside back to the start of the route.

Navachica a Medditeranean summit

In early June before it got too hot to do much I climbed Navachica. At 1834m it is the highest summit in the Sierra Almijara area of the Axarquia ranges and sits inland of Nerja. Starting from the El Pinarillo picnic area inland from the famous Nejra caves the route follows a number of dry barancos;- los Cazadores, la Charca and del Rey. The route follows an old mule trail which served a number of mines in the area, passing mine entrances at the track side. In its heyday this area must have been a hive of activity with a clear track running the length of the valley. Now with the route having been recently re way-marked we follow a less well maintained rocky path with the occasional short scramble up rock steps in the river bed. From the head of the baranco del Rey, the climb makes a tortuous ascent to meet a slightly easier line to the final summit. The guide book gives an ascent of 1,300m which makes this one of the biggest routes in the region and not to be undertaken lightly. Whilst my book described a return using the ascent, it also hinted at a number of more ‘’interesting’’ ways off. I chose to head due south from the summit along a route that I had spied during the climb. Heading toward the Med I descended toward El Puerta. What path there was limited to very vague lines through vegetation across easy ground. The route led to the top of a steep section of rock which I had noted during the ascent and had thought would be the crux. I had presumed it could be by passed on the far side, no such luck. There was a small cairn marking a vague descent line down through loose and quite steep ground and with a bit of shuffling around and backtracking occasionally the route did ‘go’ and reverted back to a reasonably clear trail. From here the path ran along a narrow ridge with some huge drops to the west into the upper section of the Rio Chillar valley. The north ridge of an unnamed 1,440m summit just north of la Puerta offered an exhilarating scramble before I returned to the normal route and a long descent back to the car. A great route for cooler days at the end of the year.

Cero de Caballo winter ascent

Last week I had walked up the mountain above us to open up a compuerta (sluice gate) on our acequia when I met the young goat farmer who works the mountain side above He was on his way back from his daily outing with his herd when they graze the hillside. Nothing unusual in that but he had with him his pet pig!!. ( I know it sounds like a story from Driving Over Lemons but its true) he seemed a bit upset when I asked him if it was for eating, which is wasn’t. The pig, a small black pot bellied example seemed friendly enough and trained enough to follow him along with the goats and various dogs. This week I climbed Cero de Caballo ( Hill of the Horseman) 3,011m which lays claim to be Europe’s most westerly 3,000m peak. My finca is on the south ridge of the mountain at 1,000m and in theory I could go straight from my back door to do the peak. I didn’t though, and made the most of the drivable tracks above Lanjaron which take you up to about 2,000m on the mountain side. In the past you could drive to a point below an old mountain refuge, The Ventura, however now a cable has now been strung across the track stopping access along the last 3 km of track. It’s likely to have been done by the Parque Nacional to stop traffic getting into what has to be said is a fantastic and remote high mountain valley and thereby protecting the habitat of the area. Unfortunately it now means that there is an extra 6 or 7 km of walking involved in any routes in the valley. The ‘new’ route up the south ridge of Caballo now follows the line of a steep fire break before hitting the ridge proper where there is an old track along the crest which after about 4km reverts to a footpath traversing the western flank of the ridge. With some snow on the ground covering the path I stuck to the clearer rocky crest and was able to get to within about 2km of the summit before donning snowshoes for the final ascent. Needles to say with blue skies above the views of the main ridges and snow covered summit of the range was magnificent. Leaving the summit I kept my snowshoes on and was able to make quite a quick descent and by linking up snow patches kept them on until I was about half way back to the car.

La Maroma, Axarquia

Whilst still waiting for the snow to arrive I took advantage of the good weather to do a mountain that has been on my list for a long time. La Maroma ( The Rope) is the large limestone mountain that lies NE of Velez Malaga. At a 2,068m it offers a great open ridge walk with views down to and across the med. to the south or back toward the Sierra Nevada and other ranges inland. There are a number of popular ascent routes up this mountain. Two come up from the from the western end above Lake Vineula however the route which is easiest to access form Lanjaron is the one from La Robledal (the oak grove) which lies to the North East of the range itself. El Robladal , is an area of mixed forest with native oaks and pine, there is a camp site here and picnic areas. Higher up the route are yew trees which are quite rare with young specimens being protected by fencing on the upper slopes of the mountain. The car park at El Robladal can be accessed from Alhama de Granada or from Arenas de Rey both routes requiring some driving along tracks. The ascent route itself is well way marked and starts easily enough as it follows forest tracks to eventually revert to a small path through the tress as the more serious ascent begins. The route eventually emerges form the forest and climbs more broken ground which leads to a very pleasant and rocky traversing section below the final slopes at a area called Salto de Caballo ( horseman’s leap). Once through this rocky traverse the route opens up as you crest the ridge to get views south to the coast. Here a very steep path comes up from the countryside above Sedella just to join our route. There is then a a quite exposed section with a steep drop to our left as the route crosses a narrow spine of rock at Cortados de Maroma. From here cairns mark the final ascent across an open expanse of limestone blocks. The summit marker is an obvious 3m high stone spire with rungs up the front to allow you to get even higher. I must say from where I sat and had lunch I’m sure it isn’t actually on the highest point which seemed to me to be at the eastern end of the ridge. The summit was quite crowded when I got there with walkers coming up from both ends of the ridge. A full traverse of the mountain seems feasible if you can arrange cars for pick ups and would make a good walk into a great one as unfortunately I had to return the way I came.

Autumn walking

I was back in England recently doing the usual family visits during the October half term. I did manage to get some walking in in the White Peak area of Derbyshire though which is an area I didn’t know too well before. I was there redoing my First Aid certificate needed to maintain my qualification to work as a guide. This was great hands on course but very different for the fist one I ever went on when the doctor running the course showed us how to do a tracheotomy using a biro and a pen knife!!!. The recent course was for wilderness first aid aimed at use way from the nearest phone or medic. I must admit I’ve been lucky enough never having to do much more than stick a plaster on (checking for allergies first though) and that has tended to be at home rather than out on the hill. Having got back from reasonable weather in the UK we had two weeks of fairly constant rain here which didn’t allow for much walking and surprisingly put little if any snow down on the mountain directly above us. The peak, Cero de Caballo is 3,011m and as such is the most westerly 3,000m+ summit in Europe. Seeing snow on its summit is a great indication of conditions further into the range. As I write the unusually mild weather isn’t allowing the low temperatures needed to allow snow fall or if it does fall to thaw out on the ground. Hopefully early days yet though and I‘m sure we will soon be out playing in snowy mountains. Once the rain eased however I did manage to get out and did a short walk in the sierra north of Granada. I had seen a walk near the village of Moclin which includes quite a spectacular gorge section. I headed out and having done an early drop off at Granada bus station was walking by nine on a very misty morning. I must admit once I was out in the cool it was very nice to walk and not be concerned about over heating and avoiding the sun as I have been for most of the summer. The route is a delight and was made better by cloud coming a going thoughout the walk which made for very atmospheric views of the gorge and surrounding cliffs and castles. The river which runs through the gorge was in spate which made the crossing of a very bouncy suspension bridge even more dramatic than it would normally have been . The route is well marked and easy enough to follow though perhaps at its best in summer when I dare say you could get into the river to cool off. for more information about walking holidays in the Sierra Nevada, Walking in the Alpujarra contact The Life of Riley at

River walks in the Sierra Nevada

As it August and as we know only mad dogs and ….. are the only ones to venture out I thought it might be worth mentioning a few of the better river walks for those, like me, foolish enough to still want to go walking. Most of these provide a chance to at least get your feet wet if not a full blown plunge Its worth remembering though that particularly at the end of summer there is a chance of thunders storms and torrential rain which can suddenly flood these rivers so look at the forecast and when out walking keep an eye out for storm clouds building. Inland there are a number of walks:- Monachil Gorge, perhaps the most famous inland route passes through a fairly narrow gorge with suspension bridges crossing the stream at the start of the walk. There are a number of plunge pools en route with the chance to take a quick dip to cool off. Rio Dilar. Just south of Granada this valley route start at a popular ‘’ area recreativa’’ which even has a chiringuita bar. There are loads of shallow pools at the start with river crossing higher upstream before the valley opens out into an area of dramatic rock scenery. Rio Cebollon, on the north of the Sierra de Tejeda this river feeds the Embalse de Bermejales a wonderful inland lake well worth a visit in its own right. The route along the river crosses and re crosses the river and there is a wonderful waterfall and pool for a cooling dip. The route has a reasonable amount of forest walking as well providing some shade. The coast also has a couple of very popular river walks the best known two are true river walks where you wade the river bed rather than simply ford the stream like the inland routes. Rio Chillar, perhaps the best known this runs from the N.W. corner of the village. You are soon in the water with the best section of ‘’cahorros’’ about an hour upstream. Here you pass though a very narrow section gorge where you can easily touch both rock walls either side of the stream. If you want a longer day’s walk the stream can be used as part of a circular route incorporating a section of the Linman Trail. Rio Higueron. Start from the centre of Frigiliana from where the route is signed. Near the start of the route is a large water deposit which is a popular swimming spot and well worth a visit as you return. The best sections of the route take some time to get to but once there the upper section provide great fun for those who like scrambling up waterfalls and inevitably getting wet.

El Torcal, Via ferrata

A well protected via ferrata route in the limestone of El Torcal Parque Nacional. The route has three pitches, the first of which is slightly overhanging and very sustained. The sting in the tail is a tyrolean traverse linking the butress which holds most of the route to the main face.

Via feratta in Andalucia

Recently a number of new via feratta routes have been created in Andalucia. many are around the Rhonda area but others are further east nearer malaga. For more information see http://deandar.com/ferratas/

‘’Ruta Medieval’’ in the Taha.

The Taha is the area of the Alpujarra east of the Poqueira Gorge and is made up of about a dozen small villages ranging from the largest, Pitres, to Altabetar, a small hamlet of around twenty properties. Linking these villages is a network of pack horse trails and old footpaths. This is just one of a number of circuits possible in the area.

Start in Fondales, one of the smaller villages. From the village entrance follow signs for Ferreirola. The chances are that, like me, you will stumble though each of the villages taking wrong turns here and there but coming across flower-filled corners and blind alleys which give these villages their beauty and charm. Once through however the path is obvious as it is marked with a number of markers. About 10 minutes after passing through a baranco the path emerges in Ferreirola, head to the church and village wash house. Turn left here to a wider track which brings you to a wonderful spring flowing with naturally carbonated water. A couple of minutes later you come to a large ‘’era’’ or threshing circle. This is a great place to stop for a break with views into the dramatic Rio Trevelez valley and the steep path on the far side of the valley which marks our ascent route.

The path begins to climb, crossing a small outcrop. At a waymarker follow the path downhill into the valley to a ruined corn mill which still has some of its original grind stones. Cross the river on a narrow bridge high above the river to begin a steep ascent on the wonderfully constructed path as it zig-zags up the hill side. It’s steep, so take it easy. However after about half an hour you emerge high on the south side of the river with views north to the main Sierra Nevada range. Follow the shallow valley south to a small cluster of houses before turning right along a wider track.

The track cuts across a steep hillside often through pine forest which gives some shade. After about an hour turn right at a finger post marking the route back to Fondales. Follow the track back down toward the river before crossing the ‘’Roman’’ bridge, one of only three river crossing in this section of the valley. The path climbs back to emerge in the village just past a small wash house.



10km, 5-6 hours, Water in villages and at spring en route.

Carazon de la Sandia

The ''heart of the watermelon'' Carazon de la Sandia is one of the main peaks of the Alayos de Dilar the rock ridge running allong the southern side of the Rio Dilar valley. The ridge forms what is perhaps the regions answer to the Cullin Ridge of Skye and forms a dramatic route not to be underestimated.
The start of the walk follows the river east as it passes through a dramatic rock lanscape of the Rio Dilar gorge and criss crosses the river a number of times. After about an hour the path zig zags its way ever upward through the forest to fianaly level out at about 1,600m before it begins a traverse below the main summit itself. The ascent up to the summit itself follows a narrow path which brances off the main route as it contours around the head of Rambla Seca. The ascent path slowly climbs up to a shallow col just south of the summit which is reached by a short scramble up the final outcrop. From this dramatic summit the views of are fantastic not least the breath taking drop north down to the Rio Dilar some 700m below.
The return route follows a narrow ridge south then west off the summit to rejoin our original path below Picacho Alto. A steep descent then follows as views of the aforested ridges of Cero de Montellano open up before you. As the path levels out it turns to follow a dry stream bed to fianlay reach a track back to the car park at the area recreativa.

7-8 hours , steep ascent /descent,18km, no water

Fuente Fria / Monachil Gorge

This route extends the normal Monachil Gorge walk of the previous blog and makes what is a great half day route into a fuller much more strenuous days outing.
The key to the extension lies in a path which climbs steeply up the southern side of the valley about 2km from the end of the gorge section of the main valley. At this point a number of paths are signed and there are about half a dozen finger posts directing walkers in various directions, the highest one on the ridge line above and to the south of the path points the way to Fuente Fria.

Initially the path climbs gradually zig zagging in and out of a shallow gully to the right of the main ridge before climbing onto the ridge itself to ascend more steeply to the edge of the forest. Here the path becomes very vague but is marked by occasionally cairns as it climbs through the pine trees. After about 10 minutes of ascent in the trees the path emerges to a more open area marked by felled logs and a path traversing the hillside through the forest. Follow the path west (right ) across the hill side before it climbs below a rock outcrop and becomes more defined. After about 15 of traversing you will reach a path junction with a way marker head south (left) and ascend steeply through the forest until a further finger post is reached. This marks the return route however we continue for another fifteen minutes or so to reach Fuente Fria itself, views here of the Monachil valley and beyond and a great spot for a rest before you return back down hill to follow the route signed to Cortijo Umbria and the return to Monachil.

5-6 hours, 12km, 500m of ascent, Water at Fuente Fria(?)

West ridge , Cerro de Caballo.

The west ridge of Cerro de Caballo is perhaps the easiest ascent of the mountain, once youve got to the start that is. Access is along forest or mountain tracks either from Niguelas or Lanjaron and ideally you would need a 4x4. The route starts at a point named Tajo de la cueva where a mirador sits on the end of the ridge , the track here is a part of the long distance Sulyar route which circles the Sierra Nevada.

Once at the start the route finding is easy as a obvious footpath runs through a small patch of native pine. The first half hour is perhaps the steepest of the day so after an initial slog the ridge begins to level out but provides great walking and fantastice views particularly of Travenque and ridges beyond. Above about 2,800 the track becomes vague however the summit has been obvious all the route so unless you are in cloud or fog then just keep on plodding upwards to the final steepening for the last 100m to the summit itself.

On the day of our ascent there was still snow for the last 200m or so and the Rio Lanjaron valley stretching north from Caballo was still under a deep covering. As ever caballo summit offers panoramic views of the main summits and all around , West we could see the mountains above Malaga whilst closer to hab was Valetta with its snow covered summit and ridges.

Ascent 900m,overall distance 15km,4-5 hours, NO WATER en route.

With snow still down to about 2,800m a walk up Valetta above the ski village in the Sierra Nevada was an ideal introductiion to the high mountains for friends who were with us last week. Valetta is a great looking summit however the route from the west is scarred by tracks particularly in summer which are used to access the summit and ski facilities.

The walk starts as ever in the cafe at Hoya de Mora ,a small developement at 2,500m. From Hoya de Mora the route is abvious as we head east uphill passing the statue of Virgen de las Nieve before we begin to hit patches of snow. In order to keep the route as easy as possible we were able to link clear areas for the bulk of the route until we reached about 3,000m from here we crossed snow fields to the shoulder of the valetta itself where there are stunning views across the north faces of valetta, Mulhacen and Alcazaba the three main peaks of the range as a whole.

With stong winds gusting aver 80km we headed back for a welcoming coffe back at the cafe.

Rio Durcal

This walk is one of many contrsts from desert like dry river valley, mountain scrub through to oak woodland and mountain valley. All this in the space of five hours walking.

One of the dificulties of many of these walks is getting to the start , this walk is no differetn however from the Durcal bypass follow signs from the via servicio northward to ''Durcal Central'', a small hydro electric station which lies at the foot of the Barranco de la Rambla. This is a dry river bed which runs N.E. into the mountains and as you follow it make sure you take in all the rock sceneryas you pass through a ''wild west '' landscape. After about 45 minutes you come to the will see the second of two low dams , keep an eye out for a cairn on the right and then follow a more defined path on the S. side of the valley. The path brings you to a fuente , however do not expect this to be running, beyond the path zig zags steeply for about 20 minutes to finally reach a track running S - N.

You are now in the heart of the mountains and the views around are fantastic. To the west, close at hand is Butreras and to the north you can easily see the ridge line of the Alayas de Dilar and Travenque beyond. Our route heads N along the track for 15minutes where it crosses a barranco you then follow a vague but waymarked path right up to an acequia line which runs all the way to the head of the valley at La Toma where the water is taken to feed much of the valley below you.

The acequia line is simple to follw and needs little discription. As you follow its very gentle traversing line you pass from dry scrub , through almond groves to finally reach oak woodland as you pass in to the Parque Nacional. Beyond you cross a frighteningly narrow steel bridge. From here the trail becomes less defined however as long as you keep the acequia line in sight you will soon reach the head of the valley and the Rio Durcal.

Unfortunaetly this is a linear walk however the retun is easy and the final walk down the dry river bed is easy on the feet.

Total distance 18km
Time 7-8 hours
Medium with little navigation problem.
No spring water enroute, however you cross a number of streams.