El Torcal, via feratta

Just outside the boundary of the Torcal natural park is the peak of Camorro Alto reached from the ‘’Escaleruela’’ track running in from the north. Low down on the northern flank of the peak about 1 km SW of the trail head is the start of what is a quite strenuous Via Feratta route.

For those not in the know via feratta are protected scrambles or easy climbs. large metal staples are fixed up the route for foot and hand holds and a wire hawser runs adjacent for clipping into for protection against a slip or fall. Needless to say you need some climbing experience along with suitable equipment before you attempt this route.

The route starts awkwardly up a steep corner and is very strenuous for the first 20 metres or so as it is slightly overhanging. From the top of the first section an exposed traverse leads to a second corner and a shorter vertical section which is again started awkwardly. At the top of this is a large platform with a short section leading to a narrow and exposed ridge. So far the route has been tough going but as long as you have a good head for heights and some experience simple enough. The next section however transforms the route out of the normal range as it is a short ‘’Tyrolean traverse’’. Put simply you clip into a pulley fixed to a cable spanning a four meter gap between the main cliff face and the outlying pinnacle you have climbed. Once clipped in you swing out into mid air and pull yourself across the gap. The traverse is hairy to say the least and with a problematic start and finish needs care to ensure you get it right.

Once over the traverse a final section of cable leads you to the top.

When I recently did the route with some friends we were accompanied by low flying vultures wheeling above us in the mist which as you can imagine added to the atmosphere a little.

During out return to the car we did a short scramble up a prominent rib to the right of the decent path., this may well have been a first ascent as it seemed to have been unclimbed before we did it. The area looks great for further exploration so I do intend to get back

3-4 hours, 5km, Experience and appropriate climbing equipment essential